Lots of pack Montevideo’s plaza as La Rueda de Candombe caps a breakout run
MONTEVIDEO, Uruguay — Each Monday night time within the Uruguayan capital of Montevideo, lots of collect round a desk in a public sq., drawn by the heartbeat of drums, guitars and voices carrying aloft a centuries-old rhythm.
La Rueda de Candombe started as an off-the-cuff jam session between mates, however has quickly advanced into one in every of Uruguay’s most talked-about musical occasions, going from native avenue corners within the capital to the Cannes Movie Competition.
“What began as one thing amongst mates grew to become seen with out us intending it,” stated Uruguayan producer Caleb Amado, one of many founders of La Rueda de Candombe.
Sunday’s gathering featured this season’s last efficiency of Rueda de Candombe at Montevideo’s Plaza de España, bringing collectively six musicians celebrating candombe — a vibrant musical style on the coronary heart of this South American nation’s identification and one acknowledged internationally as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Within the fall of 2024, Amado and his buddy Rolo Fernández traveled to Rio de Janeiro, buying and selling Montevideo’s chill for heat nights in among the Brazilian metropolis’s most iconic bars. There, they immersed themselves in “rodas” — casual music circles the place performers collect round a desk to sing and play whereas standing audiences look on.
Impressed by these gatherings, the pair returned house and shaped La Rueda de Candombe with 4 different musicians.
Like its Brazilian inspiration, the group performs round a desk. However the sound is distinctly Uruguayan: drums, guitar and accordion driving the rhythms of candombe, a style rooted in African traditions delivered to the area within the 18th century and now central to Uruguay’s identification. UNESCO has acknowledged candombe as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
At first, practically 100 folks squeezed into Santa Catalina, a small bar on a quiet nook in Montevideo, to listen to them play. Inside months, rising crowds pushed the performances into close by Plaza España. As their recognition took maintain, vans crammed with vacationers started to reach.
Regardless of Montevideo’s abundance of public areas, together with a 14-mile-long (22-kilometer) waterfront promenade, avenue performances are far much less frequent than in cities like Buenos Aires or Rio de Janeiro.
Social media helped amplify the excitement, drawing outstanding artists. The group has carried out with Uruguayan singer-songwriter Jorge Drexler at Montevideo’s iconic Centenario Stadium and recorded an album. In 2025, they had been invited to symbolize Uruguay on the Cannes Movie Competition, which hosts cultural showcases alongside its movie program.
For the reason that 18th century, candombe has remained a significant aspect of Uruguayan identification. It emerged from Plaza España — the historic touchdown web site the place enslaved folks from Africa used the beat of the drum to maintain their rituals.
The music is constructed round three varieties of drums — chico, repique and piano — and reaches its peak throughout carnival every February, when dozens of musical troupes known as comparsas parade by means of the streets.
By the mid-Twentieth century, candombe had advanced, mixing with jazz and well-liked music in a method generally known as “candombe canción.” It grew to become a fixture of social gatherings — very like the Rueda — and in addition served as a type of cultural and political expression through the Sixties and Seventies.
Because the colder months strategy, Amado and Fernández plan to remain in Montevideo. The Rueda isn’t slowing down, they are saying, it’s getting ready new initiatives, together with increasing into different public squares throughout the town.
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